top of page

Care and INFO is a work in progress.  it is very much under construction.  

Most people hear the name "Jumping Spider" and are immediately freaked out.  They expect to see some kind of attack spider that jumps out and chases you around the room.  They are called Jumping Spiders, because of how they hunt and catch their food.  Jumping Spiders do not us their web to trap and catch their food, nor do they web it up.  The web that they do make, is actually for resting, a hammock.  They will sleep inside of it, or nest, or just go in there when they want to be left alone.

When they are hunting, they will actually slowly sneak up on the prey they are stalking and wait until the perfect moment to POUNCE.  Like a cat.

They are very smart.  THEY KNOW THINGS. 


As a jumper grows, they will molt every few weeks, depending on their appetite.  When they molt they shed their exoskeleton.  This is a very stressful time for your spider.  I get so many messages and questions about this because people think there is something wrong.

The more they eat, the fatter they will get.  This is fine, you want them fat, especially when they're growing.  Sometimes they will get so fat you will be kind of freaked out.  Don't worry, they need to be fat to shed properly.

After the feeding frenzy, they will go into pre molt.  This is when they web themselves in for a week, sometimes longer.  This is when people start freaking out and asking if they're ok.  If a spider is in their hammock, LEAVE THEM BE.  Even if they are not molting, and just inside, LEAVE THEM BE.  Do not push a spider out of their hammock.  It's rude.  You don't wanna have someone push you off your bed onto the floor when you're trying to sleep or just wanna be alone.  Neither do they.  

If you are concerned about if they are alive in there, gently blow on said hammock, or very lightly mist the area around them, and they will usually shift inside.

Not all spiders will molt inside a hammock.  There is always that one weirdo who has to be different and molt on the enclosure floor.  If you ever get to see this, OH MY GOD.  The only words I can use to describe this is "weird alien octopus."  Trust me.

Humidity is very important for a spider who is molting.  

It's going to seem like the whole process is taking forever.  You're going to start wondering if your spider is ok.  Molting takes time, and every spider is different.  The closer they get to maturity, the longer the process takes.

After the molt itself actually happens, the spider will stay in the hammock a few more days.  This is because the new exoskeleton has to harden.  So, like I said, LEAVE THEM BE.  They will come out when they are ready, and they will look AWESOME.  You can't rush perfection, and your spider is getting a new outfit.  After your spider comes out and shows himself (or herself) off to you, make sure to tell them how proud you are of them, and how amazing they look.  It will give them confidence.  Follow that by giving them water, because they will definitely be thirsty.

Jumping Spiders stop molting once they reach maturity.  

   If you happen to walk in and catch your spider molting, do not freak out and think that another spider somehow got into the enclosure and is fighting with your spider and intervene, pulling them apart.  Yes, I know someone who did this and it was the spider's adult molt into maturity, which means the front leg and pedipalp that were ripped off when this person was trying to save him from the other spider never grew back.  Which reminds me:

If a young spider loses a limb, or a pedipalp, it will grow back.  The new growth will reveal itself after each molt.  Which is really cool.



You can either buy an enclosure, or make one yourself.  Most pet stores do not sell anything that is adequate to house a jumper in.  Tarantulas are most popular in the spider hobby, so most pet stores carry enclosures designed to house them, and they have different care requirements.  While some are acceptable, others are not.

Jumping Spiders like to climb.  They are going to likely nest and build their hammocks up top.   You don't want to get anything that is going to open on the top or have a lid that will obscure your view.


This is a 16 oz cup, turned upside down, with a vented lid.  This is an ideal size for a spiderling.  You don't want anything too big.  They need room to move around, to hunt, to jump, to learn all important spider things.  But you also want to keep an eye on them and be able to monitor their temps and humidity.  It is turned upside down so that when you open the cup it does not disturb anything they have spent all day working on.  


Feeding tips

How you take care of your feeders can affect your spider.  You need to keep them in a clean area.  Change the food out often (yes, you need to feed your feeders, and feed them well)  

Give your feeders Raw Unfiltered Honey or Bee Pollen.  This is very beneficial to the spider and will help prevent secret spider illnesses that you don't notice until there is nothing that can be done.

SUNLIGHT.  If you are having trouble getting a jumper to eat, put them in the window with the food.  Sunlight and warmth will stimulate their appetite.  Just don't leave them in the window and go out, you have to be there to moniter the heat and the sun.  Or you know what happens.

sling food

I try not to send spiders out when they are still eating fruit flies.   But at this stage they should be fed everyday.  There are 2 sizes of fruit fly (that I am aware of) 

1. D. Melanogaster

These are the smallest ones, and I only use them for slings who are newly dispersed from the nest. 

2. D. Hydei

These are the larger ones and can be fed to slings through several molts.  I have trouble finding these in pet stores, usually I have to purchase them online.

You can culture your own fruit flies, it will save you some money, but honestly, its annoying.  A culture will last a few weeks, maybe more, and will produce ALOT of flies.

Make sure they are FLIGHTLESS.  Otherwise get ready for a surprise when you open the lid.  I also suggest tapping the lid several times before you open it.  This will make the flies fall to the bottom, so you can just dump a few flies in the enclosure.

House flies and blue bottle flies

These are great for growing juveniles and adults.  The house flies are a good step up from the hydei fruit flies.

They are sold as spikes (maggots) or pupae.  I prefer to use the pupae.  It can easily be stored in the refrigerator, hidden in the back so nobody can see that you have them in there.  They're kept in the fridge to preserve them in their pupae form.  When you are ready for them to turn into flies, just take some out, put them in a small cup, on a paper towel.  I mist the pupae a little as well.  They pupate much better when they are humid.  Otherwise they can get stuck and you will have half pupated flies.  

After the flies pupate, and you need to take one out to feed to your spider, put them in the fridge for a few minutes.  This will temporarily stun them so you can remove the ones you need.  But act fast!  They recover quickly (especially the house flies) and then you are going to be stuck chasing the fly around the house.  (Just open the blinds and you can catch them on the window, or do this whole thing in the bathroom so you can close he door.  Then if you lose the fly it will just fly into the lighta bunch of times and you can just grab it.

The flies are great though because jumping spiders enjoy the hunt.  It is enriching to them and stimulating. 

I feed all of my flies Raw Unfiltered Honey, or Bee Pollen.  It is important that you gut load your feeders with stuff that is beneficial to the spiders.  

Fly pupae usually has to be ordered online.


This is the feeder that most people prefer because you can just go to any local pet store and get them.  But be careful.  Crickets are dirty.  Crickets can also hurt your spider.   I only use crickets as a last resort if I am having a feeder emergency.   Do not put the cricket in the enclosure.  If you are using substrate, the cricket will just burrow and the spider won't know its there.  I put the cricket in a separate container with just the spider.  I also do not buy large or medium crickets.  They are way too big for them.

Cricket Quencher does not work.  It does not sustain the crickets and they will die quicker if this is all you give them.  Feed them fruit.  Change the fruit out often if they don't eat it.  And be prepared for escapees.  Crickets are escape artists.  They have magic powers of teleportation and if you think your critter keeper or whatever you are storing them in is escape proof, GUESS AGAIN.

This is one of my homemade enclosures.  Notice that it can easily be kept on its side so when I open it so I do not ruin anything.  If you are going to do something like this, make sure you drill plenty of airholes.  By plenty, I don't mean like 3 on each side.  I have a minimal of 10 on each side (except the bottom) and the lid.  Ventilation is very important.  It's not just about air for them to breath.  They need the airflow.  The enclosure needs to be misted everyday, for humidity, as well as for them to drink if they would like.  If you mist, and there is a condensation build up, you do not have enough ventilation.  Condensation can cause bacteria to multiply.  Trust me, you do not want that.  Homemade enclosures aren't always the nicest to look at, but they do work well, especially if you are on a budget.


Aquarium decorations work well inside of enclosures.  They are easy to clean, they're pretty, and I enjoy climbing and weaving my web all over them!

You are going to need a heat source as well.  Phidippus regius are native to Florida, and some of the surrounding tropical areas.  I keep my temps in the low 80's.  Plus humidity.  My suggestion is to get a thermometer/hygrometer.  Even if it is a cheap one, that is not 100% accurate, it will still give you a good idea of what your temps and humidity levels are.  

If you use a heat mat, make sure you get one that has a thermostat.  They do sell heat mats where you can pre set the temp, and it will moniter and adjust the heat it gives off as needed, which is pretty neat.  

I also use a basking bulb for heat as well as artificial sun.  Jumpers enjoy the sun.  Natural sun is always best, but unless you are home to moniter the amount of heat and light coming in the window, a basking bulb is sufficient.  Nothing too strong though.  I use a 50 watt UV bulb and a desk lamp, about a foot away from the enclosure.  I mostly only use the heat mat at night, when the bulb is turned off, and it is cold.  The winter can be a rough time for spider, especially one that is native to a tropical climate, and you are living somewhere cold.  Even if your house is comfortable to you, there is still that chill in the air, and can be an issue for something so small and fragile.

I also mist every day, a very fine mist, like a fog.  I have a small diffuser I keep close by, and if the humidity is reading low on the hygrometer, I put distilled water in, and use it as a humidifier.  Do not put anything else in the diffuser.  Do not burn essential oils near your spiders.  It can kill them.  I have seen it happen..

when you receive your spider it will still be a juvenile, and while they will be big enough to take down the larger food, they will do much better in a smaller temporary enclosure.  Because temps and humidity are essential, especially to a younger spider, smaller will work out better for them.  Trust me.  
You can upgrade them after they molt once or twice with you but stick to around 16 oz for a young spider.  

bottom of page